On the Road: A Short Trip to Wise County, Virginia

Those who love to travel know they don't have to journey far and wide to find interesting places to visit. My wife and I go to various towns and historic sites within driving distance of our home in central Kentucky. 

Last fall, we discovered Wise County, located in southwestern Virginia and bordering southeastern Kentucky. It's an area rich in Appalachian history and culture, with beautiful scenery and mountainous terrain. It was a pleasant four-hour drive on the country roads. 

And it exceeded our expectations.

I first became aware of the area after the publication of Adriana Trigiani's best-selling novel, Big Stone Gap, in 2000. It was adapted into a movie, filmed entirely in Big Stone Gap, and released in 2014, starring Ashley Judd, Patrick Wilson, Whoopi Goldberg, and other notable actors. By the way, Big Stone Gap is Trigiani's hometown.

Wise County has 21 properties or districts on the National Register of Historic Places, reflecting an engaging and varied past in areas such as coal mining, music, and crafts. And because of the location, there are opportunities for camping, hiking, and simply enjoying the great outdoors.

We spent two nights in Wise, the county seat, at the historic Inn at Wise, a Colonial Revival-style hotel constructed in 1910. The town, with a population of about 3,000, was originally called Gladeville in 1874, but changed to Wise in 1924, after Henry A. Wise, a former governor.

Wise is home to the University of Virginia at Wise, an attractive 396-acre campus with modern facilities, a large pond and fountain, and plenty of steps. With an enrollment of about 2,000, it offers 30 majors and 32 minors. It was formerly known as Clinch Valley College, and was renamed in 1999. 

 

About 16 miles southwest of Wise is historic Big Stone Gap, a town with about 5,300 residents, founded in 1856. It's very walkable, with many of the sites located on the wide Wood Avenue or a block off one of the short side streets. You'll see the places where the movie was filmed.

A great place start is the visitor center, located at 306 Wood Ave. East in a former gas station. It's hard to miss since it has a Frank Lloyd Wright look. The staff is friendly and helpful, and you can pick up brochures about BSG and the surrounding counties.

Among the interesting stops along the way are:

• Southwest Virginia Museum Historical State Park, located in a Victorian stone mansion, presents the history of the area from the 1700s. The building has the original gorgeous oak interior.
  
• John Fox Jr. Museum, at the home of the bestselling author from the turn of the 20th century. His most famous work is The Little Shepherd of Kingdom Come.
• 
  Henry W. Meador Coal Museum showcases the area's coal heritage, from equipment to artifacts.
  
• June Tolliver House is a Queen Anne-style home built in 1890 that features local history.
• Trail of the Lonesome Pine Outdoor Drama in the Barbara Polly Theatre, the official outdoor drama of Virginia. It's the longest-running outdoor drama in the nation. The musical drama, based on Fox's novel, is held in June, July, and August.
• Town Hall is a 2.5-story Colonial Revival building constructed in 1908 by the Stonega Coke and Coal Co. 
• Lonesome Pine School and Heritage Center includes music, research, and school rooms, focusing on the area's rich traditions and customs.

Other sites we visited:

• 
  The High Knob Observation Tower in Norton offers a view of five states from an elevation of 4,200 feet. The area has many hiking, biking, and horseback trails, as well as lakes and rivers for water activities, and campgrounds and RV parks.
  
• 
  Natural Tunnel State Park in Duffield is a 10-story-tall, 850-feet long limestone tunnel that is still used by trains. The park has trails, a chairlift ride, and a visitor center. The park is in adjoining Scott County, about 20 miles from BSG. 
  

Other points of interest (that we didn't make it to) include the Appalachian Cultural Arts Center in Appalachia, Lyric Theater in St. Paul, and Mountainrose Vineyards in Wise.

Besides Fox and Trigiani, a few other notables from Wise County include Oscar-winning actor George C. Scott, Bluegrass musician Ralph Stanley, NFL players Carroll Dale, Julius Jones, and Thomas Jones, author Napoleon Hill, and pro basketball player Glenn Roberts.

Check out the Wise County Visitors Guide for more information about places to stay, eat, and other activities in this delightful corner of Virginia.

We hope to return.

On the Road: A short trip to Asheville, N.C.

Asheville is a jewel in the Blue Ridge Mountains, a small city with big appeal

Downtown Asheville

My three-day visit to North Carolina in October exceeded expectations. I knew some things about the city, such as the famous Biltmore Estate, and did some research on other places to experience.

For many years, while traveling to places in the southeast, I would drive past the Asheville exits on the interstate. Looking back, that was my loss. But I'm glad I was able to overcome the foolish decision of my younger years. Yep, live and learn.

Blue Ridge Mountains 

It's hard to beat driving to that area of the country in October, taking in the palette of autumn colors splashed across the trees in the rolling peaks and valleys. Once you enter the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, near Knoxville, Tenn., and straight through to the Blue Ridge Mountains, the reds, yellows, oranges, and browns rival nature's display in other parts of our beautiful nation known for colorful fall foliage.

Asheville was named after Samuel Ashe, the ninth governor of North Carolina. The city of nearly 100,000 residents has a thriving arts scene, great restaurants, brew pubs, a noted bookstore (Malaprop's), interesting Art déco architecture, and a state university and several private colleges. There's a lot to this small city. 

The Biltmore is the primary tourist destination for many people coming to the area, but we skipped it. My wife had been there before with friends and took lots of photos. And I have seen many images, watched a documentary and read articles about the historic place to where I felt I had already been there. Maybe next time. 

Thomas Wolfe Memorial

Downtown Asheville is very walkable and among the places we saw while strolling the streets were boyhood home of writer Thomas Wolfe ("Look Homeward, Angel" and more), the Basilica of St. Lawrence, the Asheville Art Museum, and various artworks along the way.

A highlight of the trip was visiting the Carl Sandburg National Historic Site in Flat Rock, about 30 miles south of Asheville, where the "Poet of the People" lived from 1945 until his death in 1967. His 264-acre Connemara estate includes his stately white residence, a goat farm where his wife, Lilian, raised champion dairy goats, and five miles of hiking trails. Sandburg was the recipient of three Pulitzer Prizes, twice for poetry and once for a biography of Abraham Lincoln. 

Carl Sandburg home

Sixteen miles east of Asheville is the art-and-crafts town of Black Mountain, named after the train depot. It's a quaint town that is welcoming to tourists with shops and restaurants. It is also the birthplace of Grammy Award-winning singer Roberta Flack.

I plan to return to Asheville and take in more of the sights and sounds—and definitely spend more than three days in the area. There are plenty of outdoor things to do, and for all age groups, in and around this sparkling city.

Black Mountain

While driving back to our old Kentucky home, my wife and I discussed that had we known more about Asheville a few years ago, it might have been a place we would have considered to retire. It's too late for us, but if you're nearing that point in your life, you might want to give it some thought because it's a small city with a lot of appeal.

Until the next time . . . 

On the Road Again (Starved Rock State Park)

The final stop in our whirlwind drive through nine states in nine days was Starved Rock State Park in Illinois.

I had never heard of the place (and I'm sure many Illinoisans haven't heard of some parks in Kentucky) until I read about it in Midwest Living's excellent Best of the Midwest Travel guide. By the way, this magazine became my primary source for planning in the weeks leading up to our 3,800-mile journey.

Eagle Cliff overlook at Illinois River 

Starved Rock got its name from an Indian legend dating from the 18th century. Members of the Illinois tribe died from starvation on one of the rocky peaks following a fierce battle with Ottawa Indians. More about it here. 

It was named a National Historic Landmark in 1962.

One of  easy trails 

The park, located less than 100 miles south of Chicago, was voted the No. 1 attraction in the state. I couldn't find the source of that ranking but it is a destination that draws 2.5 million visitors annually. I can see why it would be a great place for Chicagoans to escape from the urban hustle and bustle since it contains more than 12.3 miles of hiking trails through 18 sandstone canyons and several waterfalls.



The park also has a rustic lodge, cabins, camping grounds, visitors center, and numerous markers to keep you from straying too far off the beaten path. We had hoped to see some beautiful fall foliage like we'd viewed while driving across Minnesota and Wisconsin, but we were probably a week or two early to enjoy the colors. 

Visitors Center

Starved Rock lies on the south bank of the Illinois River so it offers water activities such as cruises, boating, and fishing (sorry, no swimming or wading). We had a nice buffet lunch in the lodge during our visit, then hiked several trails before getting back on the highway on our way back home (after an overnight stay in Bloomington/Normal).

Starved Rock State Park is certainly a place we'd return to if we're ever back in that neck of the woods. 

For more images visit my Facebook page. 

Until the next time....  

On the Road Again (Devils Tower National Monument)

Devils Tower National Monument appears as a giant monolith protruding from the flat prairie as you approach from miles away in northeastern Wyoming.

Devils Tower

It is impressive, rising 1,267 feet above the Belle Fourche River and 5,112 feet above sea level.  According to the National Park Service, the Tower was "formed by an igneous intrusion, the forcible entry of igneous rock material" about 50 million years ago. It's also laccolithic butte.  I took a geology course in college, almost 50 years ago, and that's all Greek to me now.

The paved Tower Trail

Devils Tower is a fascinating place to visit. There are hiking trials (my wife and I took the easy, paved 1.3-mile Tower Trial), a steep formation for climbers, various flora and fauna, camping -- or simply sit and gaze at this glorious piece of natural beauty.  It's no wonder President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed it as America's first national monument in 1906.

Offerings on tree

The Tower means different things to people. For American Indians, it's sacred ground. They often refer to it as Bear Lodge.  You can see offerings left on trees as you trek around the base.

For climbers, it's a destination to ascend and descend the (865 feet)  in one day. We saw seven the afternoon we visited. That's something I'd never do; I even get a queasy stomach watching them.  I learned that there is a voluntary climbing closure each June since Northern Plains Native Americans congregate there for ceremonial reasons.

Longhorn and bison outside the park

And for others, this is the place that lured humans and aliens in Steven Spielberg's classic movie, "Close Encounters of the Third Kind."  We didn't run across any aliens but were warned to be on the lookout for rattlesnakes and black widow spiders. And don't touch or feed those cute black-tailed prairie dogs since they may bite!  

See more images on my Facebook page by clicking here.

Next stop: Little Bighorn Battlefield

Until the next time....

Reconnecting with Nature

Nothing relaxes me and clears my mind as a hike in the woods.

My son Justin and I visited Jefferson Memorial Forest in Louisville last weekend. We walked the Red Trail, an easy to moderate path over 4.8 miles from the Horine Trailhead.

"A periodic hike not only stretches the limbs but also reminds us: Wow, there's a big old world out there." -- Ken Ilgunas

I generally take several hikes a year, from nearby Cove Spring Park to Natural Bridge State Resort Park in Slade to Yosemite National Park in California. I like urban hikes but it's those short journeys to reconnect with nature that I enjoy the most.

"Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you." -- Frank Lloyd Wright

Hiking is such a simple escape. You don't need much other than a pair of comfortable walking shoes, casual clothing, and perhaps a bottle of water. (Of course, it all depends on the difficulty and distance of a hike so prepare accordingly.)

"Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." -- Albert Einstein

It's great to get away from all the noise of everyday life and take in the peaceful serenity that only nature can provide. It's soothing to the soul. 

"Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit." -- Edward Abbey

I suppose most of us have time constraints but a walk in the woods doesn't have to be a marathon. You can move at your own pace and stop and take in the beauty of the surroundings. 

"Nature holds the key to our aesthetic, intellectual, cognitive and even spiritual satisfaction." -- E.O. Wilson

A hike doesn't have to be strenuous or test your physical limits. At this point in my life, I prefer moderate exercise when I journey down the paths because I know it's good for the body and mind.

I hope you will take time and experience a walk in the woods - often.

Until the next time....

Riding the Rails -- Muir Woods and Sausalito

When I was a child I dreamed of seeing redwoods after reading about these magnificent trees in textbooks, travel books, magazines and encyclopedias.

Among the giant redwoods

That dream came true on my trip to California when we visited John Muir Woods, named after the naturalist who was one of the founders of the Sierra Club in 1892. 

And I wasn't disappointed.

The trails that wind through the woods.

The redwoods were as tall and beautiful as I had seen them in photographs many years ago.  And to walk among those ancient trees -- some more than a thousand years old and 350-feet tall -- along the quiet and tranquil trails only heightened the experience.  

It's certainly something I'll never forget. It was one of the reasons I wanted to make this trip to America's west coast.

The marina at Sausalito

After spending a couple hours in the woods, the tour bus took us to upscale and swanky Sausalito -- situated across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco.

Sausalito shops

There is a picturesque marina to accommodate the sailboats and yachts, a great view of San Francisco Bay, an assortment of tony shops and pricey restaurants, and a laid-back feel to the whole place.

It's a scenic stopover between San Francisco and John Muir Woods.

Until the next time...