On the Road: A Short Trip to Wise County, Virginia

Those who love to travel know they don't have to journey far and wide to find interesting places to visit. My wife and I go to various towns and historic sites within driving distance of our home in central Kentucky. 

Last fall, we discovered Wise County, located in southwestern Virginia and bordering southeastern Kentucky. It's an area rich in Appalachian history and culture, with beautiful scenery and mountainous terrain. It was a pleasant four-hour drive on the country roads. 

And it exceeded our expectations.

I first became aware of the area after the publication of Adriana Trigiani's best-selling novel, Big Stone Gap, in 2000. It was adapted into a movie, filmed entirely in Big Stone Gap, and released in 2014, starring Ashley Judd, Patrick Wilson, Whoopi Goldberg, and other notable actors. By the way, Big Stone Gap is Trigiani's hometown.

Wise County has 21 properties or districts on the National Register of Historic Places, reflecting an engaging and varied past in areas such as coal mining, music, and crafts. And because of the location, there are opportunities for camping, hiking, and simply enjoying the great outdoors.

We spent two nights in Wise, the county seat, at the historic Inn at Wise, a Colonial Revival-style hotel constructed in 1910. The town, with a population of about 3,000, was originally called Gladeville in 1874, but changed to Wise in 1924, after Henry A. Wise, a former governor.

Wise is home to the University of Virginia at Wise, an attractive 396-acre campus with modern facilities, a large pond and fountain, and plenty of steps. With an enrollment of about 2,000, it offers 30 majors and 32 minors. It was formerly known as Clinch Valley College, and was renamed in 1999. 

 

About 16 miles southwest of Wise is historic Big Stone Gap, a town with about 5,300 residents, founded in 1856. It's very walkable, with many of the sites located on the wide Wood Avenue or a block off one of the short side streets. You'll see the places where the movie was filmed.

A great place start is the visitor center, located at 306 Wood Ave. East in a former gas station. It's hard to miss since it has a Frank Lloyd Wright look. The staff is friendly and helpful, and you can pick up brochures about BSG and the surrounding counties.

Among the interesting stops along the way are:

• Southwest Virginia Museum Historical State Park, located in a Victorian stone mansion, presents the history of the area from the 1700s. The building has the original gorgeous oak interior.
  
• John Fox Jr. Museum, at the home of the bestselling author from the turn of the 20th century. His most famous work is The Little Shepherd of Kingdom Come.
• 
  Henry W. Meador Coal Museum showcases the area's coal heritage, from equipment to artifacts.
  
• June Tolliver House is a Queen Anne-style home built in 1890 that features local history.
• Trail of the Lonesome Pine Outdoor Drama in the Barbara Polly Theatre, the official outdoor drama of Virginia. It's the longest-running outdoor drama in the nation. The musical drama, based on Fox's novel, is held in June, July, and August.
• Town Hall is a 2.5-story Colonial Revival building constructed in 1908 by the Stonega Coke and Coal Co. 
• Lonesome Pine School and Heritage Center includes music, research, and school rooms, focusing on the area's rich traditions and customs.

Other sites we visited:

• 
  The High Knob Observation Tower in Norton offers a view of five states from an elevation of 4,200 feet. The area has many hiking, biking, and horseback trails, as well as lakes and rivers for water activities, and campgrounds and RV parks.
  
• 
  Natural Tunnel State Park in Duffield is a 10-story-tall, 850-feet long limestone tunnel that is still used by trains. The park has trails, a chairlift ride, and a visitor center. The park is in adjoining Scott County, about 20 miles from BSG. 
  

Other points of interest (that we didn't make it to) include the Appalachian Cultural Arts Center in Appalachia, Lyric Theater in St. Paul, and Mountainrose Vineyards in Wise.

Besides Fox and Trigiani, a few other notables from Wise County include Oscar-winning actor George C. Scott, Bluegrass musician Ralph Stanley, NFL players Carroll Dale, Julius Jones, and Thomas Jones, author Napoleon Hill, and pro basketball player Glenn Roberts.

Check out the Wise County Visitors Guide for more information about places to stay, eat, and other activities in this delightful corner of Virginia.

We hope to return.

Destination Amsterdam: Flower Power

On a recent trip to Amsterdam, I ventured outside the city to explore two places that showcase the beauty the Netherlands is known for worldwide: flowers. 

I toured Royal FloraHolland, in Aalsmeer, the largest marketplace for flowers in the world, and spent several hours at Keukenhof Gardens, in Lisse, known as the "Garden of Europe."

Royal FloraHolland

Keukenhof Gardens

Flowers are ready to transport

Royal FloraHolland handles 10.3 billion flowers annually, operating 24/7 to meet the international demand. It's almost dizzying to watch carts of flowers being moved across the warehouse floor and sorted in various places to eventually be transported to numerous countries. You wonder how they keep track of everything.

The plant, which is the size of 243 soccer fields, handles about 100,000 transactions daily and has 3,500 employees to keep things moving smoothly, according to the company. Check out this video from Royal FloraHolland to see what transpires on the floor each day.

Here are a few facts and figures provided by the Royal FloraHolland:

• 23,200 different species of flowers and plants.

• 

  Legos flower pot

  Roses rank as the No. 1 flower with 2.9 billion annually, followed by the tulip with 1.5 billion and the chrysanthemum at 1.2 billion. The top three plants are phalaenopsis/orchids (106 million), kalanchoe (83 million), and potted rose (49 million). 
• The top export countries are Germany, the United Kingdom, France, Italy, and Poland; the top import countries are Kenya, Ethiopia, Israel, Belgium, and Germany.
• Royal FloraHolland is an association and cooperative with about 2,300 buyers, 3,000 members from Africa, Asia, and Europe, and 4,800 suppliers. 

It's probably a surprise to many people—and it was to me—but the tulip is not the national flower of the Netherlands. That honor goes to the daisy, which was selected in a public vote in 2023. The reason is that the tulip isn't a native plant; that distinction goes to Turkey. It's also the national flower of Hungary.

In my home state of Kentucky, tulips are in bloom on the state capitol grounds until early May. And they come from the Netherlands!

More than 7 million tulips, daffodils, and other bulb flowers display their glorious spring colors at Keukenhof Gardens. The grounds cover 79 acres of beautiful blooms that you can view by walking in the gardens, three pavilions, and exhibits; on a 45-minute boat ride through the fields surrounding Keukenhof; or by bicycle (the Dutch love their bikes). Guided tours are also provided.

The gardens also include a petting zoo and playground for children, a windmill, shops, and a food court. The facility is open through May 11.

This year is special as it marks the 75th anniversary of Keukenhof Gardens. Click here for more information about the history of the gardens.

Until the next time . . .

On the Road: A Short Trip to Greenville, S.C.

There are some cities and towns that fall under the radar and should be visited by curious travelers. Some folks refer to them as hidden gems. 

Occasionally my wife and I take long weekend trips to various areas within a reasonable driving distance and we discovered a gem in Greenville, S.C. The small city is about 365 miles from our home in Frankfort, Ky., about a six-hour drive depending on the route (we took the scenic route through eastern Kentucky, crossing parts of southwestern Virginia, and east Tennessee). 

Main Street 

While Greenville proper has a population of about 72,000, the metropolitan area has more than one million, making it the largest in South Carolina. It's the hub of the prosperous and growing Upstate South Carolina, an economic and cultural region of more than 1.5 million.

Greenville, founded in 1797, is located in the foothills of the scenic Blue Ridge Mountains. 

Falls Park on the Reedy

We focused our trip on activities in Greenville, although there are many things to do within a short driving distance such as Furman University, Paris Mountain State Park, and numerous golf courses and hiking trails.

We stayed downtown, close to tree-lined Main Street and the several places that attracted us to the city in the first place. 

The downtown is well-preserved and a pleasant place to walk to shops, restaurants, museums, and performing arts venues as well as unexpected outdoor sites. 

The Liberty Bridge 

 The Liberty Bridge, which crosses the Reedy River and waterfalls, was our first place to visit. The pedestrian bridge is about 345 feet long.  Falls Park on the Reedy was a bonus that we enjoyed, relaxing next to the falls on a warm August day in 2023.

Cancer Survivors Park

The Swamp Rabbit Trail, an old railroad corridor, snakes through the heart of the city for 28 miles. We saw about as many bicyclists as we did hikers. We walked along the path from the bridge for a little more than a mile to the charming Greenville Zoo. We stopped along the way at the inspirational Cancer Survivors Park.

Shoeless Joe Jackson Museum

If you're a baseball fan, Greenville is home to the Drive, a High A-East affiliate of the Boston Red Sox. They play at Fluor Field, which has dimensions similar to Fenway Park in Boston.  Right next to the stadium is the Shoeless Joe Jackson Museum. Be sure and check times for when it's open if you plan to visit. 

Check the official Greenville website for things to see and do. We got an excellent visitor's guide (it's free) in the mail that helped us find places to visit, eat, and stay. It even suggests a pleasant and informative self-guided walking tour of the city.  

Greenville, needless to say, is well worth the visit. 

Until the next time . . .

Back to the Keyboard

 It's been quite a while since I've posted something here. My apology. 

I could use the excuse that sometimes life gets in the way, but that would be a cop-out. A writer should write, regardless. I have been writing, but not on this platform since last May.

First, I had the sixth book in my John Ross Boomer Lit series, Cradle of Conflict, published on Dec. 1. Anyone who has written a book knows that there's a lot of writing that goes into the final product, from drafts (I had seven), to edits, to rewrites. So that took up a lot of my time until I wrapped it up in early November with my editor and graphic artist. It's also available, in ebook and print, from Amazon.

In Madrid 

I also traveled to Spain, spending two marvelous weeks in September and October, starting in Madrid and ending in Barcelona. In between, there were stops in Seville, Granada. Valencia, and Ronda. My wife, Mary, and I even made a day trip to Gibraltar. More about marvelous Spain in a future post.

My wife and I also drove to Greenville, S.C., in August. It's always nice to discover wonderful places near home. I can see why Greenville is a hot destination in the American South. It's a walkable city (we're urban hikers) with lots to see and do, from baseball to museums. And more about Greenville in a future post.

Since November of last year, I've taken on the position of marketing director for Wings ePress. I put together a monthly newsletter and manage social media, trying to attract attention to a talented group of authors. Check out the newsletter here and subscribe.

I'll be getting back to regular posts, revisiting my trips, revealing future travel plans, and pontificating about music, photography, and writing. 

Until the next time... 

Looking Ahead

 Embarking on another year, it's my intention to make it better than the previous one. 

It's not always the case because most things are beyond my control. So, in that case, I simply try to go with the flow and encounter things as smoothly as possible, although bumps along the way can snap one out of a stupor. 

So here are some of my goals, not resolutions, for 2023:

• Get back to my novel, the sixth book in the John Ross Boomer Lit series. It's been sitting dormant for about eight months. I've written more than 40k words so I need to read and rewrite from the get-go.
• For many years, I've planned to work on short stories. For those who know or follow me, I've intended to do a follow-up volume to Laments, a collection of short stories published in 2012. I may not do a follow-up on the same theme, but plan to write a few stories that have been lingering in my head for the past several years. 
• As noted in my previous post, I want to delve into poetry. I'll let everyone know how that goes.
• I want to get back on the road to places I've never seen. Travel invigorates me with the sights, sounds, and tastes that one encounters at destinations. I'm considering Spain. Maybe Machu Picchu. Of course, there are places within driving distance that I'd like to experience. Perhaps Key West? Philadelphia? Boston? Washington, D.C.? Oregon, Idaho, and Washington are the only states in the lower 48 I haven't visited, so they are a possibility if gasoline prices stay somewhat reasonable. I hope to see a few friends along the way.
• While not necessarily my goals, my wife has some things on her list she'd like to see for the house, such as a bathroom remodel. Depending on how much that will cost, it could have an adverse effect on other things, such as travel. And you never know what appliance is going to need to be replaced in the house. We also have some outdoor projects to complete this year. These are on the "honey-do" list.

At my age, time is of the essence. I may not have three or four years to do these things—give or take a year or two if I'm fortunate. It's not like when I was in my 30s and 40s and had 30 or 40 years ahead of me, which seemed almost like an eternity, to reach goals. However, a few things I made plans for back in the 1980s and '90s, I accomplished as I got older. It just takes time and determination and savings and luck. 

I hope you realize your goals this year.

Until the next time . . . 

  

Looking Back

 This year wasn't the most productive for me. 

I reached a few of my personal goals. I don't know if it's age or what. Perhaps I don't have the stamina and motivation. I don't know if that's attributable to growing older or simply limited interest in doing things. Only time will tell.

On the writing front, I didn't have many posts here, probably the fewest ever. As mentioned before, I don't want to post something for the sake of posting something. It's a waste of my time and of readers as well. I do plan to write more about music and travel. There's such a glut of posts out there about writing that it's very repetitive. 

I'm still working on book six in the John Ross Boomer Lit series. I wrote more than 40k words but stopped last spring. I admit it was partly due to the declining health of my beloved dog, Bailey, who eventually passed on June 16. Seven months later, I still think about him. Yes, dogs are certainly family. I'm thankful I have Belle.

Another obstacle I faced is seeking to have the entire series on Ingram Lightning Source so that they'll all be available to bookstores and various online stores in addition to Amazon. It would help so much with my marketing. I hope the problem is resolved soon.

On the positive side, my wife resumed our travels in 2022, spending a week in Portugal and 12 days in Banff, Canada, and Yellowstone and Glacier national parks. We also traveled to Asheville, N.C. We're still deciding on where to journey in the coming year. Maybe Spain.

I'm doing marketing for Wings ePress, hoping to bring more exposure and sales to its talented authors. It's an appreciable change of pace for me at this point in my life. I've always needed to have a purpose in my daily life.

Photography is still a keen interest that I will continue to do. I'll add a point-and-shoot travel camera to my equipment. Some of my DSLRs are getting too heavy to lug around and too much to pack for long trips involving flights. I'm too old to move to the lightweight mirrorless cameras. 

Wishing you all the best in the coming new year!

Until the next time . . .

Destination Banff, Glacier, and Yellowstone National Parks: Notes Along the Way

 I always take a notebook or notepad with me when I travel. I usually write about a day's events after I return to the hotel, but sometimes I'll put down thoughts on the bus or when there's a break along the way. I don't trust my mind to remember everything I've seen or heard over a busy day.

My notebook

I also keep a small spiral notepad in my camera bag so I can jot down information about where I took a photo. I find it valuable, especially when I return home and begin sorting through the hundreds of images I've taken at various stops along the way. So, here are some of my scribbles from my recent trip to the Canadian Rockies, Glacier National Park, Yellowstone National Park, and other places before and after:

• An American Airlines cancellation delayed the flight to Calgary one day. My wife and I were concerned because we had to take a COVID-19 test no more than 72 hours prior to our departure. We took ours on a Tuesday afternoon, so we were ready with our negative results. While our good neighbor to the north didn't require testing, our tour company did because it apparently didn't want travelers spreading the disease to other passengers. It was an inconvenience, but it made sense. But we were looking forward to the tour of Calgary. 

• 

  The tourists

  We made it to Calgary International Airport after a 3.5-hour layover at Chicago's O'Hare Airport. Everything was going smoothly through customs until we encountered a 20-something security guard near the exit. Before arriving in Canada, we had to complete an online ArriveCAN questionnaire on our reason for visiting, where we were staying, and how long we would be in their country. The security guard asked us what we were doing in Canada ("tourists"), where we were going ("Banff"), what we were going to do there (we gave him a perplexed look and said we were with a tour group), and then he asked where we were staying (I probably rolled my eyes, began pulling out travel papers and wondering if he was aware of ArriveCAN before he waved us on). I wasn't about to let him spoil this trip by getting us off on the wrong foot. 
  
• During our time in Banff, which is Canada's first national park, I didn't see any graffiti on buildings, bridges, or walls. Anywhere. I don't recall seeing any in Calgary or during the drive to Banff. Nice and clean. Disheartening images I've seen on trips to other places in the world have been the defacing of structures in Rome, London, Budapest, Buenos Aires, Athens, and cities across the U.S. It's ugly. 
• We saw quite a few bicyclists along the highways, heading to scenic spots and wilderness areas. Our tour guide said that bears refer to them as "meals on wheels."

• 

  Wildlife overpass on Trans-Canada highway

  On the Trans-Canada highway, we saw animal overpasses and underpasses that provide elk, bears, deer, and other wildlife safe passage through areas and reduce the chances of encounters with motorists. There were also game fences from the highway to deter wildlife from reaching the highway. A study reported by The Wildlife Society found that fences offer the best way to reduce roadkill.
  
• I learned that the caribou, Canada's majestic deer, is on the endangered species list. 
• A highway sign in Montana: "Hate speeding tickets? Raise your right foot."
• Two of our 31 travelers feel sick and tested positive for COVID-19 during the trip. They were quarantined for five days in the hotel, one in Missoula and the other in West Yellowstone. It made me wonder how many folks may have come down with the virus after they arrived home?
• The only complaint I heard on the tour was the bus going too fast, especially around photographic spots. I wish we could have stopped at entrances to the parks so we could take photos of welcome signs (I like to use them in photo books I make after trips). 
• Our return flights from Jackson Hole to Chicago to Lexington, Ky., were uneventful, thank goodness.

  Until the next time . . . 

Destination Banff, Glacier, and Yellowstone National Parks: Side trips

One of my joys when traveling is to go off the beaten path and explore places that expand one's experiences in life. While Banff, Glacier, and Yellowstone national parks are certainly highlights of my recent guided tour, it was several side trips that added richness to the journey.

Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump

After three days in Banff, the bus headed south in Alberta, Canada, to Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site. The name of the place puzzled me, but learned that it was about the three Blackfoot tribes and their relationship with the buffalo for over 6,000 years. There is an impressive museum and interpretative center that explains how the tribes lured and sent a herd of buffalo over the towering cliffs and how they used the kill to provide food, clothing, and other necessities for life on the plains—in physical and spiritual meanings.

International Peace Park 

Our next stop, also in Alberta near the U.S. border at Montana, was Waterton Lakes National Park. The picturesque park was established in 1895 and named after conservationist Charles Waterton. The pristine surroundings include the historic Prince of Wales Hotel, which opened in 1927, and the International Peace Park.  

Museum of Plains Indian 

After crossing into the United States, we spent the night in Browning, Montana, the headquarters of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation.  A point of interest is the Museum of the Plains Indian, which, unfortunately, was closed when we arrived. I wish the museum had been part of the tour rather than Browning being an overnight stop on the way to Glacier National Park.  There was a busy casino, but I don't gamble when it comes to money.

Beaverhead Courthouse
in Dillon 

On the way to Yellowstone National Park, we stopped for a delicious lunch at Papa T's in Dillon, a town of 3,880 residents established in 1857 and named after Sidney Dillon, president of Union Pacific Railroad. I had a few minutes to explore parts of downtown before boarding the bus to resume the trip. It's an interesting city undergoing some renovation that will surely draw visitors.

Our next destination was Virginia City, Montana, not to be confused with Virginia City, Nevada, where Adam Cartwright and his sons spent time in the TV show "Bonanza." But I bet this preserved western ghost town, a National Historic Landmark District, is just as interesting. A sign proudly proclaims that the town has "been resisting change since 1863."

Old building in Virginia City

Virginia City was once a booming place with a population of around 10,000 during the gold rush in the mid-19th century, even serving as the capital for 10 years. The population in 2020 was 219, most of whom probably maintain the buildings and operate the businesses in this historic town for tourists. 

Snake River and Grand Tetons 

After Yellowstone National Park, we spent two days at Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The highlight was a raft ride on the Snake River, with the majestic Grand Tetons as a backdrop. We also had time to walk in the town, which is like many tourist towns in the U.S. with expensive restaurants and souvenir shops. 

I hope you've enjoyed the side trips. Follow me (right column) for more of my travels. 

Until the next time . . .

 

Destination Banff, Glacier, and Yellowstone National Parks: Yellowstone National Park

 Yellowstone National Park had been on my travel bucket list for many years and it certainly lived up to expectations in August as a fascinating and unforgettable place to visit with its geysers, canyons, colorful springs, waterfalls, and assorted wildlife. 

Steamy geysers

I was concerned when flooding ravaged parts of the park on June 12, washing out roads and damaging infrastructure about seven weeks before my tour was scheduled for a two-day visit. But give credit to the National Park Service staff for making the needed repairs that opened most of the park for tourists. 

Yellowstone is the oldest national park in the world, celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2022. Nearly 5 million people visited the park in 2021, the most on record and a 28 percent increase from the Covid-19-affected travel season in 2020. The park ranked third among national parks for visitors in 2021, behind the Great Smoky Mountains and Zion. 

Mammoth Hot Springs

While it attracts many visitors, the park didn't seem crowded except in the Old Faithful area. Even there, people were on the hiking trails, visiting the lodge, information center, and restaurants, or congregating at the many observation points. 

Yellowstone is a vast park, covering 2.2 million acres, mostly in the northwest corner of Wyoming (96 percent) with tiny sections in Montana (3 percent) and Idaho (1 percent). That's probably another reason the park wasn't congested, as it offers innumerable activities for visitors. My tour entered from the north, near the tourist town of West Yellowstone, Montana.

Old Faithful

Old Faithful is the famous geyser most associated with Yellowstone, but there's much more to see and experience at the park. There are about 500 geysers, about half the number in the world, along with other hydrothermal wonders that seem otherworldly. 

A boarded path at the hydrothermal pool

For the non-backpacking visitor, Yellowstone provides paved and boardwalk paths to view the many sights. It's also pet-friendly, although certain areas are off limits to our furry friends, especially near geysers and geothermal pools. 

Bison grazing

And there's wildlife, although I didn't see many animals during my visit other than several bison herds. It amazed me that some tourists, despite the warning signs to keep their distance from bison (and other animals), would approach the beasts as if they were at a petting zoo. Bison gored three people in July. I guess some folks never learn to heed warnings.

Yellowstone was worth the visit and more. I recommend you experience it for yourself. You will not be disappointed.

Until the next time . . .

Destination Banff, Glacier, and Yellowstone National Parks: Glacier National Park

 Glacier National Park is a wonder to behold.

Red Jammer

 Unfortunately, my visit to this majestic park was for only a few hours, boarding a 1936 vintage Red Jammer at St. Mary with 11 other passengers and traveling the Going-to-the-Sun Road to Logan Pass. But along the way, you can't help but marvel at the mountains, valleys, waterfalls, and wildlife that passes before you along the way. Encompassing about 1 million acres, it was designated a national park in 1910.

Glacier National Park

You also see scores of hikers who get off the beaten path to explore the beautiful region of North America, sometimes referred to as "The Crown of the Continent," from an article by renowned conservationist George Bird Grinnell in 1901 that sought to preserve the pristine area at includes the southwest corner of Alberta, Canada. I wish I could have jumped off the bus and joined the trekkers, at least for a few miles.

My wife and I 

Logan Pass is named after Major William Logan, the first superintendent of the park. It sits at an elevation of 6,646 feet along the Continental Divide. A visitors' center with limited parking (the NPS recommends taking a shuttle to Logan Pass) and hiking paths to gorgeous views of the park await the adventurous traveler.

Because of climatic changes, every named glacier in the park has shrunk between 1966 and 2015, some as much as 80 percent, according to the National Park Service. There were around 80 named glaciers around 1850; now there are 26. 

Shrinking glaciers

To get an idea of how the environment has changed in the past century at Glacier National Park, view these then-and-now photos from the NPS. A guide said that even if the glaciers melt away, the park will remain relevant as an important geologic destination.  

I would have enjoyed spending more time at Glacier National Park but when on a guided tour, you can be held captive by the planned itinerary. Perhaps I will return one day—on my own time—and see more of the natural riches this national park offers to travelers.

Until the next time . . . 

 

Destination Banff, Glacier, and Yellowstone National Parks: Banff National Park

 In the weeks before arriving in Banff, I read several travel guides, travel blogs, and watch informative and entertaining videos on YouTube. 

    Before I travel anywhere, I do a lot of homework to familiarize myself with the destination. I believe it enhances a trip because it provides a roadmap, so to speak, of places I want to see on my adventure. 

    For those who might be unfamiliar with Banff National Park, it is Canada's oldest national park, created in 1885 as Rocky Mountains Park. It is in Alberta, a western province, and about 80 miles from Calgary.

Gondola on Sulphur Mountain

    After dinner with travel companions and getting a good night's sleep, our first stop was the gondola ride to the top of Sulphur Mountain. It takes eight minutes to travel the 2,300-foot to the summit, a smooth lift that is a peaceful hum as you take in a panorama of the Canadian Rockies. For those who have the time and energy, it takes two to three hours to hike to the top. I had neither the time nor the stamina to undertake that physical challenge.

 

Boardwalk leading to weather station

    Once atop Sulphur Mountain, at 8,041 feet (give or take a few hundred feet) it rewards you with magnificent views of Bow Valley. There are boardwalks that take you to different vantage points, including Sanson's Peak, a historic site where Norman Sanson (1862-1949) traveled by foot once a week for nearly 30 years to record weather data. There is also a visitors' center with two restaurants, gift shops, restrooms and viewing balconies. 

Lake Louise

   The next stop was Lake Louise, one of the most beautiful bodies of water in the world, with its glimmering turquoise at an elevation of 5,200 feet carved out of the surrounding mountains. It's not a large lake. I hiked from one end to the other, about 1.5 miles. On the chilly lake were canoers, paddle boaters. and surfboarders. I even stopped and took a photo of a young couple braving the frigid waters (less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit in August, so not suitable for swimming). 

Athabasca Glacier

  The last full day in Banff included a drive on the scenic Icefields Parkway to Jasper National Park, where we went to the Athabasca Glacier, the most visited glacier in North America. It has been receding about 16 feet a year, so it's gradually melting away (but not in my lifetime). We also stopped at the emerald-colored Peyto and Bow lakes for those Kodak moments and to soak in the scenery. The Canadians impressed me with their apparent concern for the environment and providing a protective and natural habitat for wildlife. 

 

Street view of Banff

  As for the town of Banff, it is touristy, as expected, with lots of souvenir shops, restaurants, and motels. But it was clean and inviting. I don't recall seeing any graffiti on walls or buildings. 

    Banff National Park is a place I'd like to visit again. It's a paradise for those who love the outdoors, from hiking to skiing to bicycling. I was told they really dressed the area up for Christmas. It's certainly a destination for all seasons.

    Until the next time . . .

 

Destination Banff, Glacier, and Yellowstone National Parks: The Beginning

 Early in August my wife and I went on an 11-day tour of Banff, Glacier, and Yellowstone National Parks. Being nature lovers, it ranks as one of the most scenic trips we've had in our travels in the past few years. 

With Covid-19 still raising its ugly head around the world, we were relieved to know that Canada only required the recommended vaccines, with the understanding they could still test us upon arrival in Calgary. But our tour company required us to have a negative Covid test within 72 hours of departure. We passed that test. 

Calgary International Airport

But our tour still got off to a shaky start as American Airlines canceled our flight to Calgary about 12 hours before our departure time at Blue Grass Airport. We tried to make other arrangements but to no avail, so we left at the same time the following day. Better late than never. 

That trimmed our 12-day tour to 11 days. We were supposed to tour Calgary on the first day. Instead, the tour company provided a limousine when we arrived at the airport. The driver whisked us to our lodging in Banff, arriving about 30 minutes before the tour bus carrying our 31 fellow travelers. 

The rest of the tour was simply wonderful. The only rain came the night before our return home. It stopped soon enough for us to take a quick walking tour of Jackson Hole.

Banff exceeded expectations with its towering mountains, gleaming glaciers, lustrous lakes, and breathtaking beauty. Glacier was scenic as well as we traveled the Going-to-the-Sun road to Logan Pass, viewing the lakes, waterfalls, and occasional wildlife. And Yellowstone was like an out-of-this-world experience with its geysers, prismatic pools, canyon, and wildlife. We finished with a raft ride on the Snake River with the Grand Tetons providing a dramatic backdrop to our adventure.

Over the next few days, I'll have separate posts about our tour stops. There were a few interesting places along the way that I'll be sharing with you.  I hope you come along for the ride.

Until the next time . . . 

Destination Portugal: Lisbon

 Lisbon is the vibrant capital of Portugal, a gorgeous city steeped in history, impressive architecture, cultural diversity, and friendly residents. 

The only things that could spoil a visit would be the weather, sitting in an enclosed tour bus, and not having enough time to take in a lot of the activities and sights to satisfy the curious tourist. Unlucky me and my fellow travelers. 

We encountered off-and-on rain during our two days in Lisbon, a city spread over seven hills and facing the Atlantic Ocean to the west. Of course, the weather is something you have no control over when on a guided tour. You take what you get from Mother Nature and deal with it. And you take along an umbrella or rain jacket just in case.

Along the way to our hotel, we drove past many places that I'd seen on YouTube travelogues, Rick Steves's videos about Lisbon, and the three books about Portugal that I had perused in the months before departing from my old Kentucky.

I learned about an earthquake in 1755 that devastated the city and much of Portugal, as well as parts of Morocco and Spain. Up to 50,000 people died and 85 percent of Lisbon's buildings crumbled to the ground in one of the worst earthquakes in history. It's often referred to as the Great Lisbon earthquake.

But you're not here for a history lesson. 

Cristo Rei monument

First, a few sights I saw from the bus: the historic Santa Justa Lift, Rossio Square, and Cristo Rei statue. We also passed by some garden areas and parks that looked interesting. I had hoped to find some free time to do some urban hiking. But I didn't.  

 By the way, I seldom take photos from a bus because I don't like to see the reflection of the interior from the windows. 

What we saw was part of my bucket list, so all was not lost. I just wished I could have seen more of what the city offered to visitors. 

We visited the impressive Jerónimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which contains the tomb of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and a few other notable citizens. 

Vasco da Gama sarcophagus 

From there we went to the massive Monument of the Discoveries, remembering seafaring explorers such as Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama, Pedro Alvares Cabral, and other luminaries from the 15th and 16th centuries. 

Monument of the
Discoveries 

We made a brief stop at the Belém Tower, a 16th-century fortification on the northern bank of the Tagus River. It also served as a departure-and-arrival place for the fearless explorers of the world.

 Belém Tower

The principal attraction of the Lisbon stop was the colorful Pena Palace, another UNESCO World Heritage Site located atop a hill in the Sintra Mountains. It began in the Middle Ages as a small monastery, but like many places in 1755, the Lisbon Earthquake destroyed it. 

Pena Palace 

King Ferdinand II built a summer residence for the royal family at the site, with construction between 1842-54.  The castle has an eclectic feel with its colors and styles—because the king wanted it that way. I should mention that it rained during our visit. After touring the palace, we spent part of the afternoon in charming Sintra. I also learned that the pop singer Madonna once lived near the palace. 

I'd like to return to Portugal, but only after I check off other places on my to-do travels. As the old saying notes, "you only go around once and then you ___" (you fill in the blank).

There are an estimated half-million expats living in Portugal, including about 50,000 Americans. That speaks well of the desirability and quality of life in the nation that it would attract others. I know I found it appealing.

I hope you've enjoyed my posts about Portugal. Feel free to "Follow" me on my journeys by clicking the button in the right column.

Until the next time . . .